Tennoji, Abeno Harukas & Shinsekai — Die Charakterviertel Süd-Osakas
Tennoji (天王寺 — the southern hub of Osaka, centred on Tennoji Station (the third busiest station in Osaka after Osaka/Umeda and Namba)), is home to Abeno Harukas (あべのハルカス — the 300-metre skyscraper completed in 2014, the tallest building in Japan — housing a department store (Kintetsu), a hotel (Marriott), an art museum, and the Harukas 300 observation deck at 300 metres — the finest high-altitude view over Osaka), the Tennoji Zoo (the third oldest zoo in Japan, established 1915), and the extraordinary retro neighbourhood of Shinsekai.
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Abeno Harukas — Japan's Tallest Skyscraper (300m)
Abeno Harukas (1-1-43 Abenosuji, Abeno-ku, 300m, 60 floors, opened 2014, Caeser Pelli architect) is Japan's tallest building — the ground floors (to floor 14) are the Kintetsu Department Store (the largest department store in Japan by floor area); floors 16–21 are a hotel (Osaka Marriott Miyako); floors 38–60 are offices; the Harukas 300 observatory (floors 58–60, ¥2,000, daily 9am–10pm) offers 360° views from Osaka Bay to Kyoto on clear days; the building sits directly above Tennoji Station.
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Shinsekai — The Neighbourhood Time Forgot
Shinsekai ('New World', constructed 1912 as Osaka's entertainment district modelled on Paris and Coney Island) declined during the post-WWII period and developed a reputation as a rough neighbourhood — the Tsutenkaku Tower (103m, 1912, the Eiffel Tower model, collapsed in WWII, rebuilt 1956) is Shinsekai's landmark; the neighbourhood is characterized by kushikatsu restaurants (skewers of various ingredients deep-fried in breadcrumbs, the strict rule is no double-dipping in the communal sauce), pachinko parlours, and the street art by Billiken (the Shinto god of lucky things).
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Tennoji Zoo and Keitakuen Garden — The Traditional City Core
Tennoji Zoo (1-108 Chausuyama-cho, Tennoji, opened 1915, the third-oldest zoo in Japan, 1,000 animals, ¥500 entry) and Keitakuen Garden (Sumiyoshi Park adjacent, Meiji-era strolling garden donated to Osaka by Sumitomo business family, free) represent the traditional public amenity of the Tennoji district — the district (south central Osaka) is less visited by foreign tourists than Dotonbori but is the most authentic urban Osaka neighbourhood; the morning vegetable market on Matsuyamachi Street is the best outdoor produce market in Osaka.
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Sumiyoshi Taisha — Osaka's Most Ancient Shrine
Sumiyoshi Taisha (Sumiyoshi-ku, 3rd century CE, one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan, accessed by the Sumiyoshi Taisha-Mae tram stop) is Osaka's most important Shinto shrine — the Sori-Bashi (arched bridge, the approach to the main shrine, a steep arched lacquered bridge over the inner garden pond) is Sumiyoshi's visual symbol; the architecture (Sumiyoshi Zukuri style, the oldest style of Shinto shrine architecture, predating the introduction of Chinese Buddhist architectural influence) is visible in the 4 main halls.
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Kaiyukan Aquarium — One of the World's Best
The Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan (1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku, ¥2,400 adults, open daily 10am–8pm) is one of the largest aquariums in the world — the central tank (8m deep, 5,400 cubic metres, containing whale sharks, manta rays, and large schooling fish) can be viewed from 8 surrounding spiral ramps that descend through 14 ecosystems; the whale sharks (on display since 1992, the first aquarium to successfully maintain whale sharks long-term) are the primary draw; the adjacent Tempozan Marketplace and 112m Ferris wheel complete the waterfront complex.
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Osaka Castle Park and Osaka's Central Green Space
Osaka Castle Park (1-1 Osakajokoen, Chuo-ku, 106 hectares, the largest urban park in central Osaka) surrounds Osaka Castle (1583, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, destroyed 1615 in the siege, rebuilt 1629, concrete reconstruction 1931, interior museum ¥600) — the park's 1,350 cherry trees make it the most visited hanami (cherry blossom viewing) site in Osaka (March–April); the Nishinomaru Garden (within the castle park, ¥200 entry) has 300 cherry trees and the castle as backdrop; the moat walls (original 17th century stone) are the most impressive surviving Edo-era fortifications in Japan.